Memorial Day Cookout

We invited Tracie to join us for a cookout on Memorial Day. I wrestled the barbecue away from Larry and instead of the traditional burgers, beans and potato salad, I served up a Mediterranean-inspired lunch.

I grilled tomatoes, garlic, zucchini, onions, peppers, fennel, asparagus, mushrooms - everything I could get my hands on.

And I am proud to say that unlike most barbecued vegetables, these were not burned on the outside and raw on the inside.

Instead, they were delectably juicy and smoky.

The key to barbecuing vegetables is to boost their fat content with marinades and basting sauces. It's the fat in meat that makes it cook so well. (Compare the shoe-leather quality of  extra-lean hamburger to the juiciness of fattier meat.)

Because vegetables are naturally fat-free, they need a little help.

Also, because some vegetables are crunchy, I parboiled them ahead of time and then marinated them so they would cook quickly over high heat. (I measure heat by holding my hand 5 inches over the coals. If I can keep it there 4-6 seconds, it's medium heat. 2-3 seconds is hot - the best for getting grill marks and smokiness.)

In my experience, barbecuing does not stick to a rigid timetable. So I planned a leisurely meal with non-barbecue appetizers to sustain us while the vegetables cooked to perfection. A raw vegetable platter, some good organic mixed olives, and a piece of rosemary-olive oil infused asiago cheese eased the hunger pangs, which grew more intense as the aroma of roasting garlic wafted through the air.

The main course was grilled vegetables served as they came off the grill, a roasted tomato and white bean salad, a green salad with citrus dressing, and a fresh foccaccia (way too easy to make, could become addictive).

Everyone groaned when I brought out dessert - strawberry shortcake complete with fresh blueberries from our garden. It was great for breakfast the next day.

Here's what I barbecued and how. The basic marinade is olive oil and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. It should be oily but also tangy. Toss the vegetables in and leave for a couple of hours before cooking so they soak up some oil and flavor.

Garlic: I sprinkled a head of garlic with olive oil, then wrapped it in foil and tucked it among the flames for 15-20 minutes. When it was squishy when I squeezed it with the tongs, I passed it to Trace to peel. Hot and messy. But wow, it was great in a salad of white beans and barbecued tomatoes.

Asparagus: blanched for 3 minutes in boiling water, then plunged into ice water. Tossed in the marinade and refrigerated for a couple of hours. Barbecued for 2 minutes over high heat.

Fennel: blanched until tender, about 10 minutes, then plunged into ice water and drained. Marinated a couple of hours. Barbecued 8-10 minutes on high until soft.

Zucchini: Cut lengthwise into 2-3 pieces each. Marinated a couple of hours. Cooked 10-12 minutes on medium or high.

Portobello mushrooms: cleaned and stemmed (so they balance better on the barbecue). Marinated in a mixture of balsamic vinegar, soy sauce and a little dry sherry stirred into a base of olive oil. Let stand one hour before cooking. Basted while cooking 10-12 minutes on medium-high. I sliced these into wedges before serving.

Onion: Sliced crosswise in thick rings. Brushed with leftover marinade while cooking 8-10 minutes over high heat.

Tomatoes: Placed whole on the coals. Cooked about 10 minutes with the cover on. Let cool a little before peeling. They were very mushy, which was fine because I put them in a white bean salad along with the mushy roasted garlic and some fresh basil.

Peppers: Cut in half and removed cores and seeds. Brushed with marinade and cooked 6-8 minutes on high. Cut in wedges to serve.

Hazelnut Coconut Bread

This is the first bread I've made from The Breads of France, and it is a winner.

The author, Bernard Clayton, Jr., says it sells at Fauchon, the Paris food emporium, under the name of Pain Hawaiien (Hawaiian bread). Instead of macadamia nuts, the French use hazelnuts, which go surprisingly well with coconut.

The recipe made 4 small loaves. I couldn't find small enough pans, so I used the cardboard loaf pans usually used for baking loaf cakes as gifts. Unfortunately the cardboard is not very thick, and the pans burned and turned black in the oven. Fortunately the bread was not damaged, just a little dark on the bottom.

It's a fine-crumb bread, and the coconut and hazelnuts give it a munchy texture. It goes well with cheddar, and makes great toast.

Clayton is a proponent of freezing fresh bread. He says even if you bake a loaf early in the week to eat on the weekend, you should freeze it and then defrost it the day you intend to eat it.

I'm not sure my bread palate is that refined, but we'll definitely be eating this bread out of the freezer in a few weeks.

Roast Potatoes with Fennel

Plain roast potatoes are wonderful. But the other night I thought I would dress them up a bit.

The main course was chard with chickpeas and feta, so I added more Mediterranean flavors to the meal by roasting the potatoes with fennel and then stirring in black olives and basil.

I buy fennel at the Hollywood Farmers Market. It's a small bulb with 2 feet of stalk and leaf fronds. Only the bulb is edible. And that needs to have the outer layer or two peeled off, and then the center core cut out. So one fennel bulb does not bring a lot of food. But even that small amount makes a huge flavor pop.

Roast Potatoes with Fennel
2 tbsp olive oil
10 oz potatoes
2 small fennel bulbs
1/2 tsp salt
pepper
6 kalamata olives
2 tbsp fresh basil

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Scrub potatoes and cut into 1/2 inch wedges. Place on oiled baking sheet in a single layer.

Discard stems of fennel. Cut bulbs in half lengthwise and cut out the tough triangular core at the base of each half. Cut the bulb into 1/2 inch wide wedges. Arrange among the potatoes.

Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and pepper. Drizzle the olive oil over top. Roast 30-40 minutes until they are golden and are tender when pierced with a knife.

Transfer to a serving bowl.

Pit and sliver the olives. Stir them into the potatoes. Season with more salt and pepper if necessary. Sprinkle chopped basil over top.

Serves 2-3

Chard and Feta Bake

Our chard is growing vigorously. I picked a couple of pounds the other day to make this excellent casserole.

The cheese and chickpeas provide protein. Chard is chock-full of vitamins and minerals, and is receiving attention for its balancing effects on blood sugar levels. So this is a very healthy one-dish dinner.

Chard and Feta Bake
2 lbs chard
2 tbsp olive oil, divided use
1 stem green garlic or 1 clove regular, sliced
2 spring onions, sliced
1/4 cup basil, coarsely chopped
1 can chickpeas, drained (or 1/3 cup dry, cooked)
4 oz feta, diced

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Strip the chard stems from the leaves. Cut the stems in 1 inch or smaller pieces. Coarsely chop the leaves.

Warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a large pot. Add the stems, garlic and onion and sauté until the stems are tender. Stir in the chard leaves and basil, cover and let cook until all is soft.

Drain the greens, squeezing out some of the excess water. Toss them with 2 tbsp olive oil, chickpeas, and salt and pepper to taste.

Oil a shallow 2-quart casserole. Spoon in the greens. Sprinkle the feta over top, pushing it into the greens.

Bake 15-20 minutes until sizzling hot. Serve immediately.

Serves 4-6. Great as leftovers too.

Black Bean and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad

Sweet potatoes go really well with citrus and tropical flavors. This shouldn't be surprising since they originate in central and south America.

This salad, which I adapted from Sensational Salads by Barbara Scott Goodman, tastes bright and looks colorful.

The roasted sweet potatoes have a similar texture to the cooked black beans. The red onion gives crunch and bite. And the citrus dressing gives a fruity tang.

Even Larry, who tries to discourage my sweet potato experiments, enjoyed this salad in his lunch box.

Black Bean and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad
2 cups dried black beans
1 onion
1 carrot
1 stalk celery
3 sweet potatoes, about 1 1/2 lbs
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper
1 red onion, diced

Dressing:
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1/2 cup orange juice (from one juicy orange)
2 tbsp lime juice (one juicy lime)
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp chili powder
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp salt
pepper

Cover beans by about 2 inches with cold water. Soak overnight or 6-8 hours. (If you don't have time to soak them, they will take longer to cook.)

Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them lengthwise into 3 or 4 pieces. Cut each piece in half lengthwise and then across in 1/2 inch pieces. Toss them in olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Bake at 350°F, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Set aside to cool.

Drain the beans and put them in a large pot with 6 cups of water. Chop the onion, carrot and celery in large chunks and add to the pot. They are just there to flavor the cooking water, and will be discarded once the beans are cooked. Bring to a boil and simmer 45-50 minutes until the beans are tender but not mushy. Drain the beans and discard the onion, carrot and celery.

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, orange and lime juice, cumin and chili powder. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Stir in the warm beans. Let stand at room temperature until cool, then add the sweet potatoes and red onion. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and extra lime juice if more tang is needed.

This salad stores well and travels well. Makes 8-10 servings.

Collard Greens

There are many excellent greens, so this is a hard statement to make, but collard greens might be my favorites.

They combine the nutritional qualities of cabbage (anti-cancer, good estrogen pathways, excellent for colons) with the ease of preparation of all leafy greens.

And they have a wonderful texture when cooked. They hold their shape yet become soft, unlike spinach and chard and mustard greens which dissolve into green mush.

Larry likes collards because they are sweeter than other greens. (It's subtle, but give it a try and see what you think.)

We grew collard greens in our winter garden, but I let them flower because white-crowned sparrows enjoy nibbling their yellow flowers, and I wanted the sparrows occupied so they would not nibble my alyssum and other flowers. It was a partially successful experiment.

So I buy our collard greens at the Hollywood Farmers Market. This is the simple way I cooked collard greens the other night. I served them with leftover rice and zucchini. It was a filling and healthy meal.

Collard Greens
1 bunch collards (3/4 lb)
1 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tbsp water
salt and pepper

Wash the collard greens and tear out and discard any woody stems.

Cut the leaves in this way: stack a few leaves, roll them into long cylinders, then cut crosswise into 1/4 to 1/2 inch strips.

Heat the olive oil in a large pan over high heat. Sauté the garlic 30 seconds until lightly browned. Add the collard greens, stirring constantly. If there are too many for your pan, cover the lid and let them cook down a little before adding more. Pour the water over top, cover, and cook 2 more minutes. They will be tender but will still hold their shape.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately.

Serves 2-3

Smashed Zucchini Spread

We had a great full moon dinner by the fireplace last weekend, starting with this smashed zucchini spread on fresh baguette.

I had found green garlic at the farmers market. It looks just like green onions, but the leaves are flat whereas the leaves of green onions (scallions) are round. (I know this because the farmer pointed it out to me when I picked up a bunch of garlic thinking it was onions.)

The green garlic is a little milder than the regular kind, and has not formed into cloves. I used a whole bulb of the garlic in place of a clove of the regular dried kind.

I consider this spread healthy because it is mostly zucchini with a little spicy kick from the chiles and mint. Cut back on the chiles for a milder spread.

I made it a few hours ahead and let it sit on the counter until dinner time. The top got a little dried-out looking, but I stirred it in and it tasted fine. It would have been good served warm out of the pan as well.

Smashed Zucchini Dip
1 scant tbsp olive oil
1 bulb green garlic or 1 small clove garlic, minced
1/4 tsp dried red chili flakes
1/2 lb zucchini, sliced (2 small)
salt and pepper
1 tbsp chopped fresh mint
squeeze lemon juice

Green garlic and green onions

Warm garlic and chiles in oil over moderately high heat, stirring until garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in zucchini. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until very tender, about 25 minutes. It will stick on the bottom, but the brown bits add to the flavor, and the steam will release them from the bottom. Use a potato masher to smash it into a lumpy spread. A little texture adds character. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the mint and lemon juice, and season to taste.

Serve warm or at room temperature with sliced baguette. Drizzle with a little olive oil and garnish with mint if desired.

Serves 2 hungry people.

Grazing the Garden

I went out to the garden before lunch the other day, and harvested some salad ingredients.

Our lettuces are too small to make a good-sized green salad, so I used a butter lettuce from Finley Farms as a base. To this soft sweet lettuce, I added the following:

tender leaves:
young lettuce
various mesclun

spicy leaves:
wild arugula
nasturtium leaves
watercress

flowers:
nasturtiums - just the petals
arugula
watercress

herbs:
marjoram
thyme
oregano

I felt good sharing this bounty with my family. Unfortunately, by the time the salad was dressed with honey balsamic vinaigrette, the flavors were muted. That might have been a good thing, because I was not feeding adventurous eaters.

And I wanted them to eat this dish. A diversity of plants gives us a diversity of nutrients, so this was one healthy salad.

Spring Beets

Tracie came up for lunch last week. Unfortunately the season for her favorite vegetable, kohlrabi, is over. I hoped these beets would make her forget kohlrabi.

I call this dish Spring Beets because it is made with mint, which grows vigorously at this time of year. The lemon juice adds to the sprightly spring flavor.

I had big beets, so I roasted them in a covered casserole dish at 400°F until they were tender, about 40 minutes. Roasted beets are great. They are sweet and earthy, a great foil for the lemony mint dressing.

If you can find small beets - up to 2 inches in diameter - steam them until they are tender, about 30 minutes. Let them cool, peel, and toss with the dressing. (You can roast them too, but keep an eye on them so they don't burn.)

Tracie raved about the beets, even though she had purple fingers from peeling them. (You think I let her sit back while I do all the work?!)

Even Larry allowed as how they were pretty on the plate next to the zucchini casserole and salad with honey balsamic vinaigrette. It was a lovely spring lunch.

Spring Beets
2 lbs beets, scrubbed
juice of 1/2 lemon (or more to taste)
1/2 cup mint leaves
salt to taste

Steam or roast the beets until tender. Let them cool, then peel if desired. (The peel is edible, but it can look a little faded.) Chop the beets if they are large.

Squeeze the lemon juice into a large bowl. Toss in the mint leaves, tearing them with your hands as your throw them in. Sprinkle with a little salt and stir it all together.

Add the cooked beets, stir gently to dress them well. Taste a beet and add lemon juice or salt as needed.

Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate and serve cold.

Serves 4

                     Vigorous spring mint in our garden